Jan 30 - Feb. 2, 2024
We hopped onto our tiny 8-passenger airplane for Samburu at the Wilson domestic Nairobi airport and began the flight to Samburu. While I wouldn't say I have a fear of heights (I've gone paragliding from a mountain in Switzerland which required us to literally run off a mountain...and I fly pretty frequently) - but as we took off in the tiny airplane and took flight, I felt my stomach lurch and I was TERRIFIED. At one point we were flying directly through a cloud and all I could see in the front of the airplane window and on our side windows was white. I saw one of the pilots reach for a brown paper bag and assumed it was to hyperventilate into (because that's where I was at), but instead she just nonchalantly pulled out a sandwich and started eating it. I didn't know how she could eat a sandwich at a time like this when we were clearly at death's door, but I guess if she had actually used it to hyperventilate that would've been much worse. (I posted some video from the flight on my Instagram if you'd like to relive it with me - @LaineyBoggz under the Samburu highlight reel)
Thankfully the flight was relatively brief and soon we had landed in the Samburu airstrip to be greeted by two Samburu warriors (Saranoy and Kiki). Saranoy was an old friend of Letizia and Murray's who greeted all of us with big hugs and a warm smile. "I will not say welcome back," said Saranoy to Letizia and Murray, "instead I will say - welcome home."
We quickly loaded up into the open jeep and began our journey to Elephant Watch Camp where we'd be staying for the next several days. The camp was founded by a longtime friend of Murray and Letizia's named Oria, her husband Ian also founded the nonprofit "Save the Elephants" which has a research center close to the camp (the nonprofit is now run by their son-in-law Frank and Letizia/Murray are big supporters). Letizia has known both of them for 50+ years, as well as many of the staff so even while Oria and her husband weren't there, coming to the camp was more like visiting family. Saranoy shared with us that we would be the only visitors at the camp during our stay so we'd have the place pretty much to ourselves (we certainly weren't complaining!).
The topography and landscape of Samburu was much different than the Mara which was very flat with quite bumpy jeap rides from all the mud and rocks. Samburu was mountainous and very lush with lots of trees, greenery, rivers and water all throughout. There were also hundreds upon hundreds of butterflies flying and elephants roaming everywhere - like a magical kingdom of elephants and butterflies. This coupled with being welcomed and treated like family made it the most magical and incredible experience of the trip.
Upon arriving to Elephant Watch Camp which is located in Samburu National Park, right on the river, we were greeted with the most warm arrival by the team. The camp was now being run by Bernard, a Samburu warrior who Letizia and Murray knew well.
.JPG)
(truly a magical and special place!)
The next few days are all a bit of a blur as it felt like I'd been transported to this beautiful kingdom far away from anything I knew where time and the real world had little meaning. We woke up as the sun came up and had incredible breakfasts (the best food of the trip) and then would head out with Saranoy to watch hundreds of elephants majestically roam. We saw other animals too of course (adorable dik diks, giraffes, ostrich, baboons, lots of little monkeys running around the camp...you name it), but the elephants were undoubtedly the star of the show. It was moving beyond measure and stirred my heart in an indescribable way, especially seeing the connection the Samburu people and warriors have with the animals and how close the animals, especially the elephants, would get to us (something that only happens when an animal has never been harmed by a human, thus feeling there is nothing to fear).
We would have lunch out in the open on our drives, sometimes seeing baby elephants and their mothers come quite close. Dinners would be served at sunset overlooking the water with a fire and candlelight. One night they had an array of fresh cheese and it might have been the best cheese I've ever eaten in my life. Everything was fresh, everything was delicious. We showered with warmed up water through a bucket contraption. The camp was completely run off solar, everything built with wood that elephants had knocked down and local, natural materials. It was a beautiful display of living in harmony with the elephants, with nature and it made me think a lot about how I could be a better partner to mother earth and her creatures.
The last night we were there, we got invited by Bernard and Saranoy to experience something truly magical that I will never forget. As a thank you for hosting us, Murray and Letizia purchased two goats for the Samburu warriors and staff. As their way of thanking us for the goats, they invited us to join them on the mountain for a traditional Samburu blessing and ceremony. G, Irina, and I joined the warriors on the trek, avoiding elephants as we walked.
Upon getting up the mountain (a small one, thankfully!), the Samburu warriors began cooking the goat (they saved the second for later) and began to sing and dance. While of course we could not understand what they were saying, it was an incredibly moving scene and it felt so special to get to be a part of it. At one point, they invited us up to dance with them, which was also pretty cool.
.JPG)
As the sun started to set, Bernard asked us to join him and the warriors as they wanted to give us a special blessing - G and I for our recent marriage, Murray and Letizia for Murray's health. As they splashed water on us and we chanted together, the entire experience was so special that it made me want to cry. After the blessing, dancing and singing resumed.
When the goat was finished cooking, it was laid out onto leaves (to symbolize its return to the earth) with equal parts cut for all of us. While I'd never had goat before, I have to admit, it was pretty delicious. The Samburu warriors continued to sing and dance throughout the evening long after the sun went down. Candles lit our dinner. After dinner, the warriors surrounded us, clapping and singing, and presented Murray with a special desert in celebration of his life and return to Samburu. Of course, I cried again. We loaded into the jeep and the warriors sang to us all the way home.
special desert and song
I went to bed that night feeling that I had just experienced something so ancient, so meaningful, so moving, so special, so hard to describe, and something which I will never forget. That day after breakfast, we packed our bags, gave our hugs, and loaded back into the jeep for the airstrip for our final destination of this incredible trip (Nairobi National Park).
Of all the 4 places we visited during this trip (Lamu, Mara, Samburu, and Nairobi), if I could only go back to one it would be Elephant Watch Camp in Samburu. As we drove to the airstrip, I felt myself overcome with emotion, gratitude for the opportunity to experience this, gratitude that a place like this so preserved culturally and for these elephants still exists. As I wiped the tears from my face and G gave me a big squeeze, I made a promise to return to this magical special place.
You can find more videos and photos from our magical time in Samburu on my Instagram @LaineyBoggz under the Samburu highlight reel.
Comments
Post a Comment